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Bringing Summer Back with Sauvignon Blanc

Written By: Michael Keba on Friday, December 28, 2007

Remind Yourself of Warmer Days By Investigating the Aromatics of Sauvignon Blanc.

In our first two weeks we talked about the complexity of chardonnay, and the tannic nature of carbernet sauvignon. Now it's time to talk about a more delicate wine, enter the queen of aromatic wines – Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon blanc is known for its crisp and refreshing acidity, as well as a laundry list of aromas it can express in the nose. It may seem crazy writing about this wine in the depths of winter, but just thinking about drinking a crisp, aromatic, tropical glass of sauvignon blanc on a hot summers day can get us all through this winter.

Sauvignon Blanc is all about aroma, and this week's science lesson is going to be based on just that…with a touch of organic chemistry. I'll admit, even I flinched when I wrote that, but it is a simple lesson that will un-earth a lot about the varietal. The word aroma is derived from aromatic chemicals, which are odorous organic compounds that vaporize easily. There are specific types that I won't get into, but basically each aroma found in a wine corresponds to a particular organic chemical. These aromatic chemicals vaporize more easily with increasing temperature, and less easily with decreasing temperature; this is why white wines often have a better nose 10 minutes after they’ve been poured.

Now think about these two concepts in the youth of a wine, mainly fermentation and storage.Wine actively gives off aromatic chemicals during fermentation and aging, reducing the amount that will ultimately end up in the bottle. Ferment a wine at a higher temperature, and more aromatics will be lost when compared to the same wine fermented at a colder temperature. So, the temperature the wine is fermented and stored at has a huge influence of the aromatic qualities of the final product. This is the main difference between the two styles of sauvignon blanc I feel there are in the consumer world:

Old World Winemaking:
Of course the roots go back to the preverbal birthplace of wine, France. In the old school style, everything is done at cellar temperature (~ 60 deg F) including fermentation. This relatively warmer fermentation temperature will blow off some of the aromatic qualities of the fruit during fermentation, resulting in a crisp, moderately aromatic wine. To add some complexity, many old world sauvignon blanc winemakers will use some oak. Balance is aim of the oak, which can lower the perception of acid on the mouth, giving a mouthfeel balanced with the quantity of aromatics. Bottle hints for this style would be any mention of "oak" or "old world style". California sauvignon blanc is split between new and old world style, but a bottle labeled "Fume Blanc" often uses the older world style.

New World Winemaking:
Leave it to those New Zealanders to start making sauvignon blanc in an entirely different style, and shake up the wine drinking world in the process. With the advent of temperature control and stainless steel fermentation, these wines are fermented as cold as the yeast can handle (as low as 50 deg F). The aim of this style is to balance the crisp acidic nature of sauvignon blanc with as many aromatic qualities as possible. The closest these wines will come to oak is maybe a stray oak tree that's growing next door to the winery. This style can be a feast for the nose, with aromatic smell ranging from fresh cut grass to tropical fruits. Bottle hints for this style are "cold fermented", "stainless steel fermented", and "new world style". If you pick up a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand it's hard to NOT get this style.

Two very distinct, and very delicious styles of sauvignon blanc. I find that the old world style tends to pair with heavier foods better, similar to what a chardonnay can pair with. On the other hand, the new world style is a perfect aromatic wine to pair with a fruit platter. If you've only tried one of the two styles, I suggest you buy the other today, crank up the heat in the house, throw on a pair of sandals, and re-live summer!

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