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Chinatown BYOB's

Written By: Jon Aronson on Monday, June 25, 2007

What to Drink with Column A or Column B

Say BYOB to any Philadelphia foodie and a single, consistent image is likely to come up: A small restaurant, sparsely yet charmingly decorated, run by a husband-and-wine (or boyfriend-and-girlfriend, or life-partner) team, featuring fresh, seasonal preparations that likely owe some debt to either (a) the owners’ backgrounds or (b) classic American comfort food but dressed in the culinary equivalent of Armani.

This is the kind of restaurant, after all, that has made dining in this city so exciting, and few people would argue that the BYOB culture is largely responsible for our latest restaurant renaissance.

What most of us forget, however, is that there's an entire world of BYOB's out there. And many of them have nothing to do with those precious little spots dotting the Center City landscape.

From the gloriously greasy noodles at Ong's to the more subtle pleasures of pad thai at Nan to the artfully arranged platters of glistening sushi at Kisso, it's possible to make the argument that the most widely represented cuisines in the Philadelphia BYOB firmament are those of Asia.

And contrary to common culinary lore, these restaurants are spectacularly well-suited for undertaking some rather unexpected vinous experimentation.

In other words: You can enjoy lots of really cool wines with the foods of Asia, and these spots are the perfect places to do so.

The easy one, of course, is sushi. The clean, elegant flavors of well-prepared sushi or sashimi lend themselves perfectly to equally subtle wines. And while beer is always a great way to go (who doesn't love a lager with their yellow tail?), you can do a whole lot better with wine.

Surprising as it may sound, sparkling wine is spectacular with sushi and sashimi. It has to do with the crisp acidity and the bubbles working together to counter all that fish-oil richness. And lest you fear that you have to spend the big bucks on Champagne, rest assured that a $13 bottle of Prosecco or Cava is every bit as delicious as a $45 Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label with your raw fish.

You can also pair sushi with Chablis - though not the stuff in the jug; leave that for the college kids and the high schoolers looking for a quick buzz. The read deal is from the Burgundy region of France, made of chardonnay, and the complete opposite of that bottle of Kendall-Jackson sitting on top of your fridge. Chablis is crisp, bracing, and a perfect counterpoint to everything from toro (tuna) to saba (mackerel).

Of course, it's impossible to talk about the cuisines of Asia without mentioning Thai, one of the most complex and nuanced Philadelphians are likely to come across. Its tell-tale balancing of flavors make it absolutely perfect for pairing with wine. After all, a complex cuisine like this will give you lots of room for experimentation with your bevvies.

My personal favorite is gewurztraminer, an aromatic white wine whose classic notes of lychee nuts, flowers, and spices make for some deliciously unexpected flavor combinations when paired with Thai food. Of course, you don’t have to drink completely outside the box with this kind of food: A classic sauvignon blanc is also a good choice, as its crisp acidity counterbalances the richness of some of the sauces, and its telltale aromas of grapefruit and grass compliment ingredients like lemongrass with aplomb.

Finally, there's Chinese food, which most people would have a hard time enjoying with anything but beer (Tsing Tao is as good as it gets here) or tea. But the truth is that wine can work... as long as you’re careful. A rich, oaky shiraz, for example, would fail miserably with a bowl of lo mein: The fruit flavors of the wine would clash with all that soy sauce. But a nice bottle of bubbly would be delicious.

In fact, a good rule of thumb when pairing wine with Chinese food (at least the kind you’re likely to find in Philadelphia) is to stick with wines that have good acidity and perhaps, if you’re feeling adventurous, a bit of perfume. Loire Valley Chenin blanc like Vouvray works brilliantly, as do viognier and gewurztraminer. A good, dry rose is also excellent, as is riesling and the newly popular Gruner-Veltliner, a crisp, bright white wine typically from Austria. (For slightly richer dishes, bring a bottle from the 2006 vintage, whose warmer weather produced wines of greater body and lushness).

The point is this: Asian food may not be as widely associated with wine as some other cuisines, but that doesn't mean you shouldn’t enjoy them together. Just go into it with an open mind and a willingness to try wines you may be less familiar with. The rewards are tremendous, and the pairings may make you look at Asian food in a whole new light.

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