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French Wines on a Budget

Written By: Jon Aronson on Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Pop Your Cork, Not Your Wallet

A good friend of mine, an otherwise intelligent guy, is convinced that all French wine is expensive, must be aged for a minimum of five years, and is enjoyed best with classic French food. Because of this, his wallet is terminally empty and his wine rack is littered with wines that died years ago.

It doesn't have to be this way.

Unfortunately, far too many people still think of French wine as a luxury item, an invariably expensive, always high-class product that can only be appreciated by those with palates sophisticated enough to know what to look for.

The truth, however, is that the French make plenty of tasty, inexpensive wine that is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In fact, only a very small percentage of French wines benefit from long-term ageing; most of the wines you buy today will taste terrible in a few years time. And unless you have a temperature-controlled cellar in your home, you shouldn’t be holding onto your bottles of wine for more than a year or two. It’s just too risky.

The good news, though, is that local state stores are busting at the seams with excellent, affordable French wines these days. From the Chairman’s Selections to the ordinary bottles lining the shelves, there is more than enough great French wine out there for you to taste to your heart’s--or liver’s--content.

One of the best ways to do this is to bring the bottles to your favorite BYOB: The wines of France are some of the most food-friendly in the world, and you don’t have to limit yourself to only French dishes to enjoy them.

There’s no better way to begin a meal than with a glass of bubbly. It cleanses your palate, wakes up your tastebuds, and sets the mood perfectly. Unfortunately, Champagne is expensive (remember, in order for a sparkling wine to be called Champagne, it must come from the region of the same name and be made according to the laws governing Champagne production). And while I like a bottle of Veuve Clicquot or Dom Perignon as much as the next guy, I cant afford it on a regular basis.

Fortunately, there are some wonderful sparkling wines from other parts of France that are just as tasty and cost a fraction of the price. One of my favorites is the Saint-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux Brut. It may not have the “seriousness” of Champagne, but its fruity flavors and food-friendly acidity are perfect at the beginning of the meal. And at $10.99, you cannot possibly go wrong.

If you’re in the mood for a white wine, or if you plan on enjoying any sort of fish or seafood, you’ll have a hard time doing better than Chablis. And not the cheap stuff that comes in the jug--real Chablis is from the Burgundy region, bone dry, and spectacular with spring and summertime foods. It’s made from the Chardonnay grape, but don’t think it’ll taste anything like that bottle of Yellow Tail Chard everyone loves. Chablis tends to be crisp and minerally, and is wonderfully refreshing on a warm day. I found a bottle of Maison Simonnet-Febvre 2004 Chablis on sale in my local state store for $11.99 (down from $19.99)--an almost ridiculous bargain.

Then, of course, there’s rosé, perhaps the most misunderstood type of wine in America today. Sadly, most people associate pink wine with white zinfandel, that slightly sweet, occasionally fizzy, altogether terrible faux wine that’s way too expensive even at $5 a bottle. Real rosé, on the other hand, is dry, pleasantly fruity, and possessed of more character than you’d ever imagine. If you’ve ever been to France in the summertime, you’ve probably noticed every café table occupied by people blissfully sipping from glasses of rosé.

They know what they’re doing, and it’s finally starting to catch on here. The E. Guigal 2005 Côtes du Rhône rosé is, at $13.99, a very good deal, and a great introduction to the range and depth of flavor possible with pink wine. And it’s wonderful with everything from antipasto to barbecue.

If red wine is more your speed, pick up a bottle of the Georges Duboeuf 2005 Beaujolais-Villages for $9.99, toss it in the fridge for half an hour (trust me here--it’s a million times better a bit cool), and enjoy it with everything from burgers to poultry.

Or just pour yourself a glass, take your time with the menu, and watch the world go by from the comfort of your table. With French wine, you have more options than you ever imagined. And with prices this reasonable, you’ll be able to spend your money on more important things--like extra dessert.

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