Gaja 2001 Sperss
Written By: Brian Freedman on Monday, July 30, 2007 Wine of the Week
Among wine lovers, the name Gaja is legendary. The patriarch of this family-run operation, Angelo Gaja, has had the same effect on Italian wine as, say, Frank Sinatra had on American music. Which is to say that his influence has been nothing short of revolutionary. Combining a deep respect for tradition with an unrivaled understanding of the most modern, cutting-edge wine-making techniques, Mr. Gaja produces some of the finest, most sought-after wines in the world. And while he made his name with the wines he produces in Barbaresco, his successes are not limited to them. One of his best non-Barbaresco bottlings is the Sperss, a wine produced in neighboring Barolo, and a fine example of all that Piedmontese nebbiolo is capable of. This one, from the 2001 vintage, is a big, brooding wine that still needs time before the tannins give way and allow the finely-wrought cherry, chocolate, tar, and cedar notes to shine through. Still, there’s something surprisingly subtle here, and though there’s enough stuffing to allow it to keep improving for years, its classic Gaja elegance will make it drinkable in the short-term, too. 94% nebbiolo and 6% barbera.
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