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Premium vs Bulk Wine Production

Written By: Michael Corbett on Thursday, April 24, 2008

Price vs. Quality has long been the debate for bulk and premium wines.

In the last six months, I have worked two different harvests, in two different growing regions, and two vastly different scales. This contrast begs the question - which is better, bulk wine, or premium wine?

In one corner we have a 900 tonne producer of premium Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in The Napa Valley. All fruit is hand harvested, and selectively de-stemmed and crushed to end up with the most whole berries as possible in the fermenter, leaving stems and leaves behind. Fermentations are done in 15-tonne lots, and the temperature and pump over regimes are changed on a daily basis for tannin extraction based on the winemaker's palate. Red wines are pressed, with the free-run juice and pressings separated to be put into different price-point wines. White wines are fermented in barrel, with sur lie ageing and malo-lactic fermentation. All wines are aged in 225 liter barriques, using barrels up to 5 years old from a range of selected coopers, forests, and toast levels.

In the other corner we have an 18,000-tonne producer of bulk wine, mostly Shiraz, Chardonnay, and Riesling from South Australia. The majority of fruit is machine harvested and delivered in 25-tonne lots, which are de-stemmed and crushed en masse.

A large portion of the production--the crushing, pressing, and centrifuging of white juice--will be fermented elsewhere. Red wine fermentations are optimized to be completed in 5 days to maximize throughput. Fermentations are tasted daily by the winemaking team, and wines are augmented by acid, tannin, and oak powder additions to fit the predetermined flavor profile of the product. Red wine are pressed and, in most cases, the free run and pressings are combined. Some wines are aged in 225-liter barriques and 300-liter hogsheads, but many are destined for oak alternatives such as chips or staves.

And the winner? The consumer! Let's face it; each winery is catering to an entirely different market. There are certainly occasions for a premium Cab from Napa, but for most wine drinkers, the everyday glass of wine is going to be a lower price point wine made at a large scale. These two regions are unique in that they put themselves on the map. Napa proved to the world that the United States can produce wine at a quality rivaling Europe, while Australia changed the wine market by proving that bulk wine doesn't necessarily mean low-quality wine.

As a consumer, the best thing to do is choose your wine wisely with your budget in mind. Premium wines are truly special and unique, and can be used to make a special occasion that much more memorable. Larger production wines are perfect for everyday drinking, and are a great way to explore different varietals and regions. That way, when you do buy that special bottle of wine, you won't spend your hard-earned money on something you don't like.

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apples7
Santa Barbra, CA
Posted on 4/25/08

I have becoming more of a boutique small production consumer. It really gives you more room the explore, those giants churning out grapes are out to please, IMO the others are willing to explore.Nice article Michael.

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