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The Tannic Categories of Cabernet Sauvignon

Written By: Michael Corbett on Friday, December 21, 2007

Cabernet Sauvignon can be a labyrinth. Use this guide to decipher tannins, oaking and price.

Quite possibly the polar opposite of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon has never been a simple wine. As the child of the tannic father cabernet franc and the aromatic mother sauvignon blanc, its complexity of flavors goes all the way back to its conception. From complex blends that can be aged for decades (think Bordeaux or Napa) to fruit forward cabernet blends that can and should be popped and consumed today (think Australia), cabernet sauvignon offers a full gamut of choices for the consumer.

Unfortunately, the range of styles and price points makes it rather difficult to pick the right bottle. But it’s not all hopeless, and there are some tricks to help you make the right decisions. It’s easier than you think.

With red wine production, tannin is the name of the game. Tannins are complex compounds extracted from the grape skins and seeds during fermentation, and are integral to the mouth-feel and body of a red wine. When extracted perfectly, they contribute a velvety smooth sensation; when extracted imperfectly, can leave the mouth thirsting for water.

Because cabernet sauvignon is one of the most tannic grapes, fermenting to extract the perfect amount of tannins requires the knowledge of a true artisan winemaker. Fermentations are tasted daily, and pump-over or punchdown schedules are changed on the fly (both processes put the grape skins in contact with the wine). With hundreds of ways of doing things, 10 different winemakers would come up with 10 different wines, even if they were given grapes from the same vineyard block. And when you consider that single-lot wines are rarely bottled, and almost every cabernet is blended with some merlot, petit verdot, malbec, cabernet franc, syrah, or even carmenere, you can imagine how many different types of cabernet there are on the market. And this is without talking about what type of oak is used!

So how do we keep track of all this? Personally, regardless of what flavors or aromas each wine may have, I like to keep track of cabernet blends based on how tannic they are. For a consumer, I think there are three main categories:

Drink Me Now:
Price Range $ - $$

Let's be honest: Complex wines are great for special occasions, but the world also needs every day drinking wines. Packed with berry flavors and aromas, with slightly present but smooth tannins, these wines are great for introducing a new drinker to red wine. A new world style of stainless-steel fermentations and oak alternatives yield an array of affordable cabernet libations, with a less tannic backbone. Look to the central coast of California or the up-and-coming countries of Chile, Argentina, and Australia for some of these great wines.

I'm good now, but I might be better in 6 months or a year:
Price Range $ - $$$$

The next step up on the tannin scale will give you the same berry flavors and aromas, but the increase in tannins adds a mouthfeel that can coat your tongue with velvety deliciousness. The difficulty is, when filtered and bottled, wine goes through what is known as “bottle shock.” A wine gets beaten up quite a bit on its way from the barrel to the bottle, and needs some time in the bottle to basically heal. Open a bottle before it is healed and you’ll end up with some pretty drying tannins. A good rule of thumb is drink a fairly tannic wine 3 years or older. This is not to say you can’t find 2005 cabernets that taste great now, but when you’re talking about a nice bottle of wine it’s better to err on the side of safety.

Give me at least a few years:
Price Range $$$$ - $$$$$

This is the type of wine you’re probably not going to pick up by accident. Only a small percentage of wines are produced to be aged for the 10 or 15 year mark, and usually have a proportional price tag. The wine has been loaded with tannins for aging, and if opened early could dry your mouth faster than a paper towel. Give it five or ten years, and the tannins will drop to let out the beauty of aged wine: Bottle aromas. Older wines evolve a whole new set of aromatic compounds that give an exciting, different wine drinking experience. The best way to avoid drinking one of these too early is to consult your local wine shop, or to read up on reviews which often include older vintage wines.

Unfortunately there is not much in the way of bottle hints for these categories. You won’t see "we extracted the pants off these grapes for MAXIMUM tannin," or "lightly extracted for everyday drinking" on the back of the bottle. So the best rule is to know which type you’re looking for, and to be able to communicate that to your local wine store. Most importantly, taste, taste, taste, and keep track of which style puts a smile on your face.

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