1998 Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
Written By: Michael Zimberg on Mon, Apr 28th 2008
I have excessively high hopes for this wine. Roulot, along with Coche Dury, has become the auction darling of the white burgundy scene. His wine prices have gone from sane to insane in the past 12 months. The highest end Roulot Meursault (Perrieres) sells for around $500 per bottle from a good vintage. Most of the villages wines are more than $100. These were $100 and less than $40 respectively prior to the price surge. The increase is all with good reason. Roulot makes some of the most sensual, delicate, intricate, nuanced and delicious white wines.
The Charmes is one of Roulot's top wines. 1998 is a relatively weak year for white burgundy. This wine is currently not available at retail, so the price is an estimated auction value. I go from hating to loving and back again. First, it is slightly maderised. This part is a total turn off, but the sherry flavors come and go. When gone, it is an incredibly complex blend of stone, rubber, lemon rind, peaches, and white grapefruit built around a solid frame of silky smoothness. Its texture is lithe gossamer, and each sip is a new experience. In the end though, the sherry gets stronger the longer the wine is open, so the overall experience lacks. I have more bottles in my collection, and will try another bottle soon. This bottle isn't great, especially given its auction price. Retail $150.
Mikey's Grade
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