Amazing 1990s California tasting at the Knickerbocker
Written By: Michael Zimberg on Thu, Sep 18th 2008
I had a great time drinking the wine below with a fun, diverse, fascinating group of wine lovers.
We started with a 2004 Kistler Vine Hill Chardonnay as a warm-up. It is great, as always, with oily, nutty, sunny, full flavors. Retail $90. Grade: A.
Then onto the great whites.
1995 Kistler Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay. There's a muted citron nose, a a darker color than the '04 Kistler. It looks mature. It is delicate, feminine and burgundian. I get some minerals and stones, ala Mersault. Great wine making. Not available at retail. Current auction value is about $150. Grade: A-.
1996 Peter Michael Winery Chardonnay Clos du Ciel. This has an exotic, tropical nose of kiwi, pineapple and candied peaches. It is fresh, lively and still has upside aging potential. Retail: $100. Grade: A.
1996 Kistler Cuvee Cathleen. This is so charming. More concentrated, more of everything then the previous wine. Lots of oak, but framed within excellent, absolutely delicious buttery, creamy, lemony goodness. Wine of the flight. Retail: $150. Grade: A.
My arm had to be twisted to continue onto the reds:
1994 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection. There's mint and cigar box. Tastes like a top bordeaux, somewhere between Mouton and Haut Brion. There's interesting green pepper. Brian rightly says "this wine is right, and silky smooth". It has poise, and nice balance. Retail, $225. Grade: A.
1997 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Vineyard. Really ripe, boisterous, blackberry. This one is unashamedly California, and it works. There's anise and terrior. Adley accurately compares it to a Amarone. Nils says it was around $30 on release. Not available anymore. Grade: A-.
1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia. Oh man, this is really great. So long and smooth, with an endless finish. Great balance. I love this wine. Just like last time I tried it. It is ripe with very smooth tannins. Not overly complex, but absolutely delicious. Retail: $225. Grade: A.
The next wine was served blind. Black cherries, something strange in the nose (almost off, and somewhat sharp). It is fleshy with a great mouth feel, and an interesting minerality. It is 1997 Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon. Not currently available. This wine was $16 on release, which is an excellent value. Grade: B+.
1991 Dominus. Tobacco, cherry, and such a complex, interesting nose. I sit and smell for at least a minute. Just kicking on the palate, with waves of finish. It is the way cab should taste. Brilliant. Gives me chills. Retail about $350. Grade: A+.
1995 Dalla Valle Maya. Inky dark, with a more ripe nose of pure, wild blackberry. It is huge, viscous and incredibly smooth. Great hang time. Another one to cherish. Retail: $450. Grade: A.
1996 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon. I love Hillside Select, every time. I have had many. This is another amazing, voluptuous spectacular, singular gem of a wine, with everything in the right place. It is palate staining with perfect balance. Retail $300. Grade: A+.
1993 Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon. It is stinky, funky and ripe. I feel slightly let down, but may have a tired palate. I feel very lucky to have this wine in front of me. It is bordering on unfair after all the great wine to try to objectively evaluate this. It is has transparent, pure, clean fruit. It is very poised and long. No mistaking it for anything other than a California Cab. It inscribes itself on the palate, and lasts and lasts. I withhold a grade. Retail: $500.
