Chardonnay Exposed
Written By: Michael Corbett on Tue, Dec 11th 2007
Chardonnay started in the American wine market as a simple white wine (think Carlo Rossi Chablis). It is now, though, one of the most interesting wine varietals in the industry. Climate wise it is as versatile as a native born New-Englander – it can thrive just about anywhere independent of weather conditions. And although California is known for its cabernets, chardonnay is the most planted grape in the state. On top of all this, with a relatively simple flavor profile, chardonnay is a proverbial empty canvas for winemakers.
Some of you, no doubt, are devout chardonnay drinkers, while others may be devout chardonnay haters. In either case, I doubt you have tried or appreciated all the many forms of chardonnay that can be enjoyed. So, in this article, I am going to expose the different faces of this dynamic varietal so that all of you, be you a fan of a crisp sauvignon blanc or a tannic cabernet sauvignon, can find a type of chardonnay to get along with.
So, lets start this discussion with... the... science. OK, now before you groan, let me start this with a disclaimer. Yes, I am going to use some scientific wine-speak, but stick with me because these two concepts will get you a long way with your chardonnay adventures.
The first is malo-lactic fermentation, and it is a lot less complicated than it sounds. Basically, winemakers sometimes add a bacteria that ferments the harsh malic acid (think green apple tart) to lactic acid (think smooth milk). In addition to changing the acids, this process changes the wine color from light straw to golden, and gives off a chemical called diacetyl, which happens to have a buttery/butterscotch flavor.
The second tool winemakers use on chardonnay is barrel fermenting and barrel aging. Despite what you may think, barrel fermenting chardonnay is less about the addition of vanilla and toast flavors, and more about aging the wine "sur lie" or "on the lees," lees being sediment of decomposed yeast cells and grape particles. Keeping the wine in close contact with the lees via a small fermentation vessel (i.e. a barrel) tends to increase the mouthfeel of the wine, giving it a creamy character with some "yeasty" flavors such as toast or nuttiness. Just by varying the use of these two tools, winemakers can produce an array of different wine styles from the same grape.
I feel the different styles of chardonnay can be broken into three simple categories for the consumer:
Aromatic:
A new world style that focuses on the fruit flavors of the varietal. It will have slim to no malo-lactic fermentation, and although it may be barrel fermented, chances are it will be stainless steel fermented at colder temperatures. Some hints to look for are region (Australia and New Zealand), fermentation temperature (labeled as "cold fermented"), and little to no use of oak (labeled as "un-wooded" or "naked" Chardonnay). This wine will be loaded with aromatics on the nose, and more reminiscent of a new world Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. If crisp, acidic, citrus and sometimes flinty whites are your preference, then I highly suggest picking up a bottle of cold fermented, un-oaked chardonnay to get a taste of what is often hidden behind a strong buttery finish.
Balanced:
A style that uses some malo-lactic fermentation and some barrel fermentation on lees to create a more complex wine, while still maintaining some up-front fruit. This type of wine is dependent on blending, and will often have a mix of malo-lactic lots, non-malo-lactic lots, varying fermentation temperatures, and even the use of both barrel fermentations and stainless steel.
This may be the trickiest of the three to easily locate, as you can easily end up with the third type I am going to describe. Things that may be mentioned on the label are the percentage of malo-lactic fermentation (look in the mid-range 40-60%), and use of barrel fermentation. From this you can expect a more structured wine, medium bodied buttery/butter scotch creaminess with slightly muted fruit aromas and flavors. This is my personal favorite in terms of style, as it is a blending phenomenon that will no doubt be a signature of the winemaker him - or herself. To me it is reminiscent of a perfect gin and tonic, refreshing and aromatic with complex mouth flavors on the finish. (Of course, it won't taste like that!) If you're a fan of yin and yang balance, then seek out one of these spiritually balanced chardonnays.
Butter Bomb:
This style of wine is often associated with Napa Valley and Burgundy (specifically Cote d'Or) chardonnays. Large use of malo-lactic fermentation to modify the mouth feel as well as barrel fermentation lead to creamy, buttery wines that have often lost some of their fruit character. Hints to look for on the bottle are use of malo-lactic fermentation (usually 80-100%), barrel fermentation, mention of "sur lie" aging and a deep golden color. Expect a less acidic wine full of butter and butterscotch aromas with nutty hints as well as a toasty finish.
The toast and nutty flavors are comparable to those in Champagne, as "sur lie" aging imparts the same yeasty flavors that Champagne picks up during its bottle fermentation. This style is probably as close to red a white wine will ever get, a classic example of how complex a chardonnay can be, and can often be aged for years. If you like a big creamy/buttery chardonnay with a heavy mouth feel, then this savory style of chardonnay is for you.
Although I tend to prefer a more balanced style of chardonnay, I think each of the three types holds merit at different times. A refreshing, aromatic style is perfect on a hot summer day with grilled fish, while nothing can beat a complex butter bomb on a cool fall night with pasta in a cream sauce.
Whatever you choose, there's sure to be a chardonnay that perfectly pairs with your own personal preferences. Not bad for a supposedly simple wine.
