Classic Wines

Ordering Wine in a Restaurant

Shake Those Red or White (Wine) Blues

An evening at a nice restaurant is supposed to be relaxing, a chance to remove yourself from workday responsibilities, relax for a few hours, and let someone else worry about the little details like cooking and cleaning. But for more people than you'd imagine, dining out is a stressful experience, and one of the primary culprits is the wine list.

Let's face it: Wine is different from other beverages. No one gets themselves into a tizzy over whether or not they order the right beer or cocktail. In those cases, you ask the waiter or bartender for whatever it is you enjoy most and get on with your life.

But wine - well, it's just never been that easy. There is, after all, that whole "lifestyle" aspect of it. A bottle of Chateau Margaux 1996 on your table tells a very different story about you than a Yellow Tail Cabernet 2005.

But what about those mid-range bottles that comprise the majority of a wine list, the ones that are so confusing for most people? What should you do when it comes to them?

Fortunately, there's a simple, reliable strategy for ordering wine in a restaurant. And you don't have to be a sommelier-in-training to do it like a pro.

• Set a budget- Most people assume that you have to spend a lot of money in order to get a decent bottle of wine. The truth, however, is that even wine professionals tend to drink inexpensive ones when they're paying for it themselves. And there are some truly delicious wines out there that are easily affordable on any budget.

When I go out to a restaurant, my upper limit is $60 per bottle. And believe it or not, it's easier now than it ever has been before to find some really interesting stuff for less than that. After all, as more and more people have become familiar with wine, restaurateurs have realized that they'll be able to sell more of it if they keep the prices in line with what most people are willing to spend.

And don't be shy about letting your waiter or sommelier know about your budget. There are some restaurants in town whose lists run the gamut from $40 bottles all the way up to a few thousand bucks. No one will think less of you for not wanting to blow your life savings on a bottle of fermented grape juice.

• Consider what you'll be eating- Pairing food and wine can be bewildering, not least because there's so much bad information out there about it. That old cliché about only drinking red wine with meat and white wine with fish, for example, ceased being accurate a long time ago, when the average American began experimenting with more exotic food than tuna casserole and pot roast.

These days, you have a lot more leeway when it comes to pairing, so don't be afraid to try something new. Pinot Noir with grilled salmon is one of the truly great combinations you'll ever taste. Or pad thai with Gewurztraminer. Or sushi with bubbly. The worst that can happen is that you make a bad pairing. The world will not stop spinning as a result.

You should, however, consider whether the wine or the food will be the focus of the meal. Decide this first, and then consider what you'll pair with it.

• Ask for help- Of course, if you know nothing about wine, then you'll have a heck of a time knowing where to even begin. Luckily, there are people who can help. And don't be scared of them, either: The old image of the sommelier as a snooty dictator of all things fermented hasn't been true in years. These days, wine experts tend to be enthusiastic about wine, and often look at their job as a chance to educate a public hungry for information and a great wine experience.

Take the sommelier at Osteria [Philadelphia], for example. I recently visited there with a group of friends, and when she came to the table to take our wine order, I asked for a $50 bottle. What happened next is typical of this town's wine culture: She asked what we'd be pairing it with, and upon telling her, she told us that she had an even better wine for our purposes. Turns out the one she suggested was not only spectacular with the food, but about $10 cheaper.

Happily, this is the norm these days.

Above all else, though, is this: Keep an open mind. Try something new. And don't get all worked up when faced with a wine list. Just follow this strategy, take a deep breath, and remember that you will survive the wine-ordering ordeal.

And you'll be drinking soon enough, anyway.