Telaro Falanghina Vendemmia Tardiva 2004
Written By: Brian Freedman on Fri, Sep 7th 2007
This ain’t your girlfriend’s sauvignon bland. Nor is it your wine-snob friend’s single-vineyard Sonoma chardonnay. No, this fabulously interesting white wine is in a class all its own, not likely to jump out at you from the store shelves and far from the type of white you’ll likely want to drink every day. But once in a while we all need a change of pace, and this dry, late-harvest falanghina from northwest of Naples is just the thing. It has a waxy texture like certain chenin blancs, a rich mouthfeel that’s cut beautifully by the bracingly citric acidity, and a flavor profile that runs in the direction of flint, lemongrass, and preserved lemon peel. A wine completely unlike anything you’ve ever had before that happens to be delicious, too? At $20 per bottle, that’s not only a steal; it’s a minor miracle.