Classic Wines

The Piedmont Series - Gattinara & Ghemme

Although the Piedmont may be famous for the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, there are two well kept secrets that are itching to get out. I am referring to the two DOCG wines of Gattinara and Ghemme which are located in the northern area of Piedmont near the Alps. Both of these wines are based on Nebbiolo, also known as Spanna, but they differ from Barolo and Barbaresco in that they are allowed to add in other varietals such as Bonardo and Vespolina. Along with the unique influences of their terroir, both wines demonstrate how well Nebbiolo can be blended with other varietals to create complex and rich wines.

Gattinara was awarded DOCG status in 1990 and since then it has started to gain a great deal of momentum as a noble Piedmont wine. The region is located on the right bank of the Sesia River where Spanna or Nebbiolo grapes celebrate a superb vineyard site for fully developing their attributes. Gattinara must be made from at least 90% Nebbiolo, 10% of Bonardo and/or 4% Vespolina can be added. Most quality producers today use mostly all Nebbiolo. The wine is made in a basic form -- aged 36 months, a Riserva -- aged 48 months and can achieve a lifespan up to 15 years in a good vintage. Before it was promoted, the wines from this area were overcropped and yields were too high to produce any consistent quality. It was not until a man named Mario Antoniolo made it his mission to produce a great Gattinara that the wine received the recognition needed to achieved DOC and DOCG status. Antoniolo first established his vineyards in 1948 and began producing Gattinara solely from grapes grown on his estate. Today the estate produces a wide selection of DOCG and DOC wines that are imported to the US by the very well respected importer Marc de Grazia. The Antoniolo estate also produces several high quality single-vineyards Gattinara wines that rival the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco because he makes them with 100% Nebbiolo. Try the basic Gattinara, or upgrade into the single vineyard wines which are Osso S. Grato, Le Castelle, and S. Fransesco. Each vineyard has a different soil type and vine age so have some fun and see which one strikes you as the best.

Ghemme is located on the left bank of the Sesia River directly across from Gattinara

Region and was promoted in 1997 to DOCG status. Though it may not be as well known as Gattinara, the wines are nonetheless recognized for their youthful, rich, and complex flavors. The major difference between the two wines is that Ghemme is allowed to use 65% to 85% Nebbiolo (Spanna), 10% to 30% Vespolina, and up to 15% Bonardo. With a lesser requirement for the Nebbiolo variety and because of the addition of the later grapes, the wines have a darker and juicier texture. The wines are also made in a basic form - aged for 36 months, a Riserva -- aged 48 months, and can live up to ten to fifteen years in a good vintage. If you want to check out this wine look for the following producers: Ioppa, Antichi Vignetti di Catelupo and Luigi Dessilani. Antichi Vignetti di Catelupo produces several single-vineyard wines, Collis Carallae, Collis Breclemae, and Signore di Bayard that have a great reputation and are quite age-worthy.

In the next installment of the Piedmont series I will tell you about the great wines of Barbaresco and what makes them so special.