Classic Wines

The Piedmont Series - Gavi & Roero DOCG

Before I wrap up my studies of the important wines of Piedmont, I have to tell you about two more areas that produce some great white wines that should not be missed. One is a forgotten classic and the other has recently started to get a little press. I am referring to the Gavi DOCG and Roero DOCG. While you may or may not have heard of either one, Gavi has a long history in Piedmont and celebrated most of its success in the 1960s. The white wine is named for the town of Gavi, located in the southeast province of Alessandria. Gavi is produced from the Cortese grape, a varietal which has been grown throughout the province since the late 1600s. Gavi is an aromatic white wine with fruity notes of citrus peel and minerals. The wine can be found in three dry forms: Still, Frizzante, and Spumante; however the wine is mostly consumed as a still, white, table wine. Today there is a large number of mediocre to bad Gavi on the market so beware of what you pick up. Good quality Gavi should have ample acidity with crisp citrus tones and well pronounced floral aromatics. Try producers like Martinetti and Villa Sparina, both wines will fall under $20 USD and have a good reputation for quality. Make sure to buy the most current vintage available because Gavi is not meant to age. It should be consumed upon release and enjoyed in its youth. Gavi is a great match for oily fish such as grouper and salmon, because of its minerality and crisp acidity. If you taste Gavi and find that it is too crisp and you need something with a little more depth, then try the next wine, Roero Arneis DOCG.

The DOCG region of Roero is located in the hills on the left bank of the Tanaro River and is known for its sandy soil composition. The region produces both red and white wines, but for today I am only concerned with the white wines which are made from a varietal that is only grown in this region of Italy -- Arneis. Outside of Piedmont, Arneis can be found in California and in parts of Australia, but none of the New World versions come close to the real thing. Arneis is a dry crisp aromatic varietal that is relatively low in acidity when compared to Gavi. There tends to be more complexity and depth to Arneis so expect the wine to sink into your mid-palate a bit more. The aromatics of Arneis are very interesting because they have a rich oily character often described as orange blossom. Arneis was traditionally blended into Nebbiolo based wines to soften the tannins and on its own it was once referred to as Barolo Bianco. Famous producers like Bruno Giacosa and Vietti were among the first houses to market Arneis in the 1970s and through their persistence, kept the wine alive until it exploded onto the scene in the 1980s. In 1985, Roero was granted DOC status and started on its path of success. Twenty years later in 2006, Roero was elevated to DOCG status and hence became one of the best white wines in northwest Italy. Today look for great producers like Malvira, Deltetto, and of course the pioneers, Bruno Giacosa and Vietti. A good Roero Arneis will cost anywhere from $15 to $25 USD.

Next stop, Northeast Italy.