Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Written By: Dylan York on Thu, Jun 5th 2008
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was among the first wines in Italy to receive DOCG status in the 1980s and is considered one of the great wines of Tuscany. It is produced in the township of Montepulciano outside the city of Florence and should not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (made with the Montepulciano grape from Abruzzo) or Rosso di Montepulciano (a younger version of Vino Nobile). According to the DOCG regulations, the wine must be made with at least 70% Prugnolo gentile, which is a synonym for the Sangiovese grape. Although most producers use predominately Sangiovese in their wines, up to 20% of other black varieties like Canaiolo and Mammolo can be added along with 10% of the white grape Trebbiano. This practice is very similar to the methods used in the nearby Chianti region.
Even though Montepulciano is near the Chianti region, the soil and micro-climate are much different. Vino Nobile is produced in a warmer zone and the soil contains less limestone and more sand. These variables contribute to the unique characteristics of the wine. Compared to Chianti, Vino Nobile is higher in alcohol and much more full-bodied. The wines are aged in oak casks and can be found in two forms: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (aged two years) and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva (aged 3 years).
Today there are over 150 different producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, so choosing the right one is essential. Over the years I have tasted a lot of great wines from this region, but there are two producers that I can always find: Poliziano and Avignonesi. I like these wineries because they both produce distinctly different wines and both have two tiers of quality. With the exception of the 2000 vintage which was damaged by hail and the 2003 which was too hot, Tuscany has had some great vintages since 1996. Keep that in mind when choosing any of the following wines.
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - This was the first Vino Nobile that I ever tasted and I have bought every vintage since. Classic style with earthy black fruit flavors. The wine is made from 85% Prugnolo gentile, 10% Canaiolo, and 5% Mammolo. Retails for about $25 USD.
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva "Grandi Annate" - Made from 85% Prugnolo gentile and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the more full-bodied Vino Nobiles on the market. Look for the 1999 or 2001 vintage. Retails around $50-$60 USD.
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - 85% Prugnolo gentile, 15% Colorino, Canaiola, and Merlot. Clean, fruit driven, and juicy style of Vino Nobile that is capable of ageing up to 10 years. Retails $25 USD
Note: Colorino is a Tuscan varietal used the same way Petit Verdot is used in Bordeaux; for color and tannic structure.
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone - 100% Sangiovese. This single-vineyard wine is only produced in excellent vintages. If the vintage is not up to par, the fruit from this vineyard goes into the basic Vino Nobile. Look for the 2001 vintage. Retails around $40-$50 USD.
Other producers of note: Boscarelli, Valdipiatta, Nottola and La Braccesca.
