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Jon 
Aronson

Jon Aronson is a full-time wine consultant and food and wine critic. That being said, he lives the phantom lifestyle of many critics who want to be able to keep their anonymity. Avoiding the flashing bulbs of photographers, he travels the world as a... More

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Wines for the Labor Day BBQ

Written By: Jon Aronson on Tue, Aug 28th 2007

With Labor Day fast approaching, the time has come to start thinking about what to serve at your end-of-summer barbecue. And no, it doesn’t have to be beer—too many people, for too long a time, have associated the kinds of food we eat at cook-outs with cheap, flavorless American brews. (You know the ones: They’re the beers advertised on the commercials with all the hot girls and ripped guys mountain biking or water-skiing or otherwise engaging in the kind of activities you never should while drinking...)

The truth, though, is that some of the best pairings for barbecue-type foods aren’t beers at all, but—you guessed it—wines.

The first step, then, is to stop thinking of wine as something precious that should only be savored over a fine meal, in fancy stemware, with snooty friends.

Once you’ve done that, you’ll be ready to move on to the fun part.

Wine, after all, runs the gamut from light and fruity to rich and bold and makes stops everywhere in between—a huge range for what is really nothing more than fermented grape juice. And because of that wide range of flavors and textures, there is a wine out there that will pair perfectly with nearly everything you choose to serve at your end-of-summer barbecue.

Let’s say you’re going with the classics - hamburgers and hot dogs and the like. Contrary to popular belief, this is absolutely perfect food for pairing with wine. Hamburgers, for example, go with a wide range of reds, and depending on what you top them with, your choices are almost unlimited.

If you’re in the mood for the classics, you can’t go wrong with a cabernet sauvignon, especially if you’re making a rich, juicy burger. Cab will pair well with a burger for the same reason that it’s so delicious with a steak: The tannins in the wine cut right through the fat and protein and make it a much less overwhelming eating experience. You can also go with a red Côtes du Rhône, a wine from South Eastern France that is both fruity and peppery—perfect for a burger that’s been highly seasoned. State stores almost always carry the Côtes du Rhône produced by E. Guigal, and at just around $10, it’s a steal.

Hot dogs are a bit more difficult, though by no means impossible. A bottle of light, fruity Beaujolais will go well with them—check out the Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais (good) or Beaujolais-Villages (even better) for a solid one. But for me, rosé is the best partner for a dog—just make sure you get a nice dry one, which will be a heck of a lot more interesting than a white zinfandel can ever be.

If you’re grilling up ribs, there’s really only one word you need to remember: Zinfandel. Again, stick with the red ones here—they are absolutely nothing like white zin, so there’s no need to be embarrassed when you pick up a few bottles at the store.

California red zinfandel tends to be rich, spicy, and typically high in alcohol. They’re spectacular when enjoyed alongside the smoky and sweet flavors of most barbecue sauces. Look for bottles from Ravenswood and Markham for rich fruit and fair prices.

For barbecued shrimp, another Labor Day favorite, you should look in the direction of white wines. But don’t get stuck in the trap of buying the same old bottles of chardonnay everyone always insists on: They’re delicious with the shrimp, sure, but there’s more to white wine than that. Seek out a gruner-veltliner, the difficult-to-pronounce but fabulous-with-seafood white wine from Austria. They are usually fruity and peppery and wonderfully refreshing in the summertime heat.

And don’t forget dessert, which is where you can really make an impression with your guests. Keep your eyes open for white dessert wines, like Sauternes on the Chairman’s Selection display, to enjoy with apple pie and other fruity desserts, and inexpensive Ports and Madeiras to help your chocolate desserts along.

No matter what you’ll be preparing for your Labor Day barbecue, remember: It’s summertime. Time to relax, enjoy, and let loose a little. A great selection of wine at your end-of-summer barbecue will help you accomplish just that. And maybe, if you play your cards right, you’ll do it with a little bit of panache, too.

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